I
received this Coelogyne cristata as a gift from Windswept in Time Orchids in
the spring of 2014. I was looking for another Coelogyne, but Edgar did not have
it. However, he did have a Coelogyne cristata in need of some love and care. So
I gladly took it home and repotted it. Over the summer, I watered it heavily
and watched the pseudobulbs plump up.
Considering its condition and
the finicky nature of recently repotted Coelogynes, I was very surprised
to see the spike emerging last fall. It is finally blooming and, I love, love
the flowers. They are about 3 inches wide, pure white petal with
yellow-orange throat. Many Coelogyne cristata are fragrant. However, mine is
not. Still I am looking forward to next year's blooming already.
Coelogyne cristata is considered a cool growing
species found throughout Southeast Asia, Southwest China, India, and several
Pacific islands. This species grows in areas with clearly defined wet and dry
season. Under cultivation this translates to frequent watering for four to six
months in warm weather. I placed my Coelogyne in a shallow dish during the
summer so that water was always available. This method worked best for
me.
I am thrilled about this bloom. The satin and velvet textures of the flower petals in combination of the pink hues whisper romance. Ok so maybe that is just in my head. But you can see where I am coming from right? Right?? Although, I showed the picture below to my mom, and her response was, "That looks like that bug. You know the one." I eventually figured out which one she was talking about but it does not support my romance statement. So that is enough discussion on the buggy appearance. My mom feels the droopy flower assist in the bug like appearance. I, on the other hand, think it adds to the mystic and romance. Mystic and romance are my final answers.
It has not been in my collection long so I can not take much credit for the bloom. But here is what I know about the plant and how I have been growing it for the last month. This species comes from Thailand, Malaysia, and Sumatra. It is an intermediate to cool grower. It is found at elevations between 2300 - 6300 feet, which is quite a range. So I think it has some temperature tolerance, but prefers the cooler end of the spectrum. Mine is growing in intermediate temperature. I will report back on how that works out for me in the long run. It requires moisture year round and will quickly shrivel when moisture needs are not met. As for the lighting, I have it in a West window for the time.
It blooms sequentially. Therefore as it matures it can put on a long show. Some growers say it well eventually bloom the majority of the year. The bronze leaves are another nice feature of this plant. Young leaves have a bronze appearance when they first start out. This adds a nice contrast to the mature green leaves. When spring comes and it is time to repot, I am going to place it in a hanging basket to better enjoy the display.
If Lewis Carroll created an orchid character in Alice In Wonderland, it would be a P. fairieanum. The flower's appearance is 50% regal and 50% trippy. It is this appearance that attracts even those odd people who dislike Paphiopedilum. This plant is among my favorites because it boast such a huge personality. Thankfully it passes many of its uniquenesses on to its offspring. So there are many opportunities to enjoy a very nice variety of fairieanum remixes.
Paphiopedilum fairieanum is a small growing plant with bright green, strap like leaves. It hails from the Himalayas and Bhutan where is grows in leaf litter and humus. This plant can often be found growing on limestone outcrops, which is why it is considers a calcareous paphiopedilum. Many grower advise adding oyster shells or some from of limestone. I very lightly supplement the growing medium with dolimitic lime about every three months. It requires intermediate to cool growing conditions. I have heard some people grow it warm but mine started to wilt a bit when temps went over 85 in the summer. To counteract to warm temperature, I put it in a shady spot over the summer. This allowed it could enjoy its summer vacation. This seemed to really help it deal with the heat. In the winter, I keep the temps between 75 and 60. My fairieanum appears to do very well with this arrangement. It is about 10 inches under a 125W CFL grow light. So far so good with this one.
It has a reputation for being finicky and failing to thrive, especially when it is young. Right now I have two growths, but I will feel better about its stability if it makes it to four growths. It is a bit of a diva. This bloom definitely took its time appearing. I think is took about 3 months for it to fully open. That feels pretty diva like to me. I will do my best to keep it happy and hope it does not have a melt down.
Miltonia clowesii is a great example of the interesting patterns and designs nature can produce. When I first saw a Miltonia clowesii in bloom, I was sure it was a hybrid of some sort. I was shocked to find out it was, in fact, a species. The colors and patterns seem unreal, like something a fashion conscience person created. I am curious to find out more about its pollinators. Pollinators often provide clues as to why a bloom has a certain shape and/or color.
M. clowesii is native to Brazil. It is relatively temperature tolerant, but I grow mine pretty consistently in the intermediate range. I don't provide it with any special treatment over the winter. My general collection receives lower temperatures, less fertilizer, and less water over the winter. My M. clowesii is treated in this way over the winter. As for winter lighting, it is grown under lights or in an east window. It summers outside receiving bright light and generous water and fertilizer.
The blooms open successively, making the display last for well over a month. The flowers on the bottom of the spike fade before the buds on the top open. As the flower fade the white on the lip takes on a burnt orange color. Even though this signals the flower is dying, I still find it beautiful. I might need to expand my Miltonia collections.
Phragmediums are pretty easy to grow... if your water has low TDS (total dissolved solids). I learned this the hard way. My first Phrag was a hybrid called Colorado Mission. I used a mixture of tap water and rain water. My tap water was about 380-420 ppm, which is pretty high. It is certainly too high for Phrags, even when diluting with rain water. As you may expect, my Phrag Colorado Mission slowly declined, and I finally had to toss it. Without access to pure water, I could not grow many sensitive orchids and has limiting the growth potential of many others. To address this concern, I purchased a Reverse Osmosis (RO) system. This filtration system removes just about every little particle from your water. Using the RO brought my tap water down to 0-10ppm which is perfect for Phrags.
Later, I added a Phragmipedium Sedenii to my collection. Phrag Sedenii is a cross between Phrag. schlimi and Phrag longifolium. It has thrived and bloomed well for me.
I grow mine intermediate in an east window. Its pot sits in a shallow container of water. This allows me to always keep it wet. I wait for the water in the bottom of the container to evaporate before watering again. Phrags are light feeders and salt sensitive. So I fertilize my Sedenii once a month or less with a very diluted fertilizer - about 1/8th strength. I allow the fertilizer to run through the pot then place the pot back in to the shallow container with clean water.
They are successive bloomers and bloom for a very long time. This one has been flowering since May or June. One flower opens while another is developing. The first flower stays open for 3-4 week. Then it drops off while still in close to perfect condition. Next the developing bud opens, and the cycle repeats. I have seen some Sedenii carry more than one open flower at a time. I am not sure if this is a trait related to a specific cultivar or characteristic of a mature plant. Mine only has one mature fan and two developing fans. Maybe as it grows and matures it will be able to carry multiple open blooms at once. Time will tell.
I received this small paphiopedilum from Andy's Orchids last year by mistake. I ordered a Paphiopedium charlesworthii so I was a bit surprised when the first bud opened to see this flower. Andy's identified my paph as a Paphiopedilum vejvarutianum. It is very easy to confuse vejvarutianum and charlesworhii when not in bloom. From talking with other, this mistake is pretty common. Andy's worked with me to correct the error. Side note: They are absolutely fantastic to work with and have the best customer service of any orchid seller I have done business with.
Back to Paphiopedilum vejvarutianum! These seem to be pretty uncommon. I don't know of many places that sell them or many hobbyist who have them. Vejvarutianum is related to barbigerum. It originates from southwestern China and Thailand. I grow mine in an east window under intermediate conditions, and it has responded well. I had two spikes this year but one blasted before opening. I am pretty sure I allowed it to get too dry. Other than that little mishap it has been a strong grower that does not require a lot of fuss.
The foliage is pretty compact with about 5-6" leaf spans. Based on what I have read, I am anticipating the leaf span to significantly increase as it matures. The flower is a little less than 3" across and last. It is adorable.
Last month I posted a picture of my Aerangis mystacidii blooming for the first time. The flowers were not characteristic of other Aer. mystacidii. My flowers opened with an uncharacteristic green hue and were missing the usual curl in the petal and sepal. So I wrote to Tom at Angraecums.blogspot.com. His suggestion was to take a photo again after the flowers had the chance to mature.
12 days later the flowers have lost most of their green hue. However, there is no real curl to speak of. I am not sure what to make of my little Aerangis mystacidii.
